Sunday, September 25, 2011

Paper Impressions

copyright 2011 Margo Krager
Giclee Fine Art Printing on Fabric
 This is my first Miniature Chintz Center Panel taken from a book of Paper Impressions owned by my friend Judy Schwender, Curator of Collections/Registrar at the National Quilt Museum in Paducah, KY.

Once the blocks were cut for a design, it was often first printed on paper as a 'strike off' or check on the pattern. These paper impressions were saved as a record of a mill's production or used to register the design at the London Patent Office.

During my visit to Winterthur last May, I was able to see a miniature quilt with a tiny Chintz Center Panel. ( see page 81 of 'Quilts in a Material World' by Linda Eaton). I was captivated! What was the origin of this small printed square?... furnishing goods (the texture of the square did not appear 'heavy') or dress goods?

My second day at Winterthur was spent in the library with sample books. the last 1/2 hour of the day, in the last book....I found the answer!!..."Print sample book, 1795". In this slim volume filled with paper impression I found the answer to my question! Corner motifs on square cotton scarves or "mouchoirs".  In several of the first pages there were the corner squares of a scarf border...and then in the middle of the book....a wide elaborate border had an oval motif place diagonally over the corner.

I have reproduced this small oval exactly... in terms of size ( 3 1/4" X 5 1/2" )  and color...even the 'weak' coloration of the roses in the upper left!

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Jam Making

A 1939 print from one of my 20th century books.

Last Sunday ( 9/11) I had the extraordinary opportunity to take a jam making class ( held at Willow Springs Ranch in the foothills of the Bridger Mountains near Bozeman) taught by Rachel Saunders of Blue Chair Fruit Company in California.

A friend taught me to make jam in the early 70s. By the mid 70s, we were living on the Little Hills Game Experimentation Station in the Peance Basin of western Colorado and I would drive our 3/4 ton Ford pickup to Grand Junction on fruit buying trips...making canned peaches and numerous jams. Over the years, the amount of my jam making has varied..but always I would do a batch of my signature jam..Peach Melba...3 parts peaches to 1 part raspberries. This summer ( my first summer of not working in 35 years) I was again enjoying jam making.

I saw a small notice in the local paper about jam making classes...the Advanced Flavors sounded interesting. The cost of the class was for me high...but I decided I wanted the 'experience'.

Rachel Saunders was absolutely amazing....her knowledge/demonstration of the chemistry of the jam making process, explanation of the building of complex jam flavors as well as the back story of her 10 years of experimentation and 3 1/2 years in business. She has a staff of 3 but still makes all of the jams sold by Blue Chair Fruit Company. I learned so much on Sunday and was inspired!

Friday night after work..I spent 5 hours making Candied Orange now I can play today with some black and blue berries...creating something wonderful!

So how does this relate to Textile History? I stepped out of my comfort zone and had an extraordinary experience. I am now totally energized to create a wonderful jam today and to dig deeper into my current research on the history of Chintz!

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Quadriga Cloth

One of the 20th century fabric sample books in my collection is from Ely & Walker 1948...featuring their Quadriga Cloth. The offerings still included a variety of sweet med tone pastels.

There are numerous bias a range of sizes.

Some of the newer designs are larger and a little 'edgy'...note the gray and the cartoon black outlining of the motifs.

And new 'Modern' stylings!

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Mountain Man Rendezvous

Native American dancers

Can shoot a buffalo with bow/arrow on horseback


Beaver trapper wearing wool shirt and brain tanned leather

Vendors Row

Furs and leather for sale